The Tudor Monarch, reference M2639W1A0U-0001, is an entirely new model line launched for Tudor's centenary year, and it arrives as a single configuration with no colour, strap or size alternatives. That confidence alone makes it interesting: one watch, in steel, intended to state what Tudor thinks its next century should look like.

It made the cut because almost every element is new rather than borrowed from the Black Bay back catalogue. The 39mm stainless steel case is sharply faceted, with polished and satin finishes cutting across its surfaces, and it is matched by a two-link faceted bracelet with Tudor's T-fit clasp. The dark champagne dial uses a California-style layout that Tudor describes in error-proof terms, mixing Roman numerals from 10 to 2 with Arabic numerals from 4 to 8, over a texture the brand compares to papyrus. Applied markers and black Snowflake hands complete a face that looks classical and slightly strange at the same time, which is precisely the point.

Powering it is the Manufacture Calibre MT5662-2U, a self-winding movement made only for this watch, certified by both COSC and METAS as a Master Chronometer. It offers a 65-hour power reserve, resistance to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss, water resistance to 100 metres, and high-grade finishing that includes Cotes de Geneve, perlage and an 18ct gold inlay on the rotor, under a five-year transferable guarantee. The price is US$5,875, sold through Tudor official retailers. Verdict: the boldest Tudor launch in years, and a centenary piece that earns its new name